Monday, March 22nd, 2010

‘The man who wants to gain wisdom profits greatly from having thought for a time that man is basically evil and degenerate: this idea is wrong, like its opposite, but for whole periods of time it was predominant and its roots have sunk deep into us and into our world. To understand ourselves we must understand it; but to climb higher, we must then climb over and beyond It.’ — Friedrich Nietzsche

“We have to find ways of organizing ourselves with the rest of humanity. It has to be everybody or nobody.” – Buckminster Fuller

“It’s never too late to be what you might have been.” — George Elliot

[In order to keep the flow I opted not to mark each reference; source material is available in the footnotes]

CHAPTER 1

My introductory view of Jerusalem was nicely timed during a lovely winter sunset, no war in sight. The West Bank is far enough, though, at points, one of the much-disputed security walls aligns with the highway.

The winding road would tease the view as we approached. In the distance I saw a hint of the Old City. I saw new development, tall cranes resting, looking like gigantic African birds, waiting to work, to start again the next morning. I sensed something heavy as we got closer, but wasn’t sure at that time if it was anticipation or something else. It seemed to offer a deceptive peace, like that of the open savannah.

My consciousness of this modern city, the sweeping part of Jerusalem, caught hold as we approached the bus station, and reminded me of a conversation with a friendly and helpful, young Jewish architect working at the Bauhaus Museum in Tel Aviv, the city in which I landed and got my start in the Middle East.

She told of German Jewish architects who settled in Palestine after the rise of the Nazis; men who fled their European homes before the main events of the Holocaust who designed the prevailing unifying aesthetic of the 30’s housing boom. This metropolitan “white city” is now recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for having the largest concentration of modernist-style buildings in the world. There is impressive architecture found around the city, though much of it is in disrepair.

Tel Aviv is similar to Jerusalem in that war has done its damage, bruised more recently, post World War II; a beauty overshadowed by a devastated psyche.

Once upon a time the open-style architecture of Tel Aviv flowed with its natural landscape. We discussed how it has since retreated into closure. The people of this great city, like a caterpillar unnaturally locked, withheld for too long, are affected; living in a less than pristine cocoon, and now anxious.

You can see the dirty tears of the once beautiful landmark buildings falling from window eyes, shuttered, closed shut with perpetual stains dripping down its cheeks. The scars felt inside are now a spectacle outside, with old air-conditioning units and cracking paint like age-spots haphazardly scattered up-and-down its skin. Visible, atop busy streets, these apartment homes, stories high, show some sign of life, and indeed are full of it.

Millions live in facsimile, or the same sad building all over the city.

New homes being built by and for millionaires along the beautiful Mediterranean beach side are at a distance. The depths of the city has new growth as well, quite cutting-edge, but overall it is this.

Crowded lanes, always some sort of traffic jam, car horns blaring non-stop to the beat of a high-pitched angry drum, meshed together with typical sounds of any big city, construction litters the air; people are rushing to get wherever they need to go, in dented cars, sooty scooters slipping through traffic, sometimes on the side walk.

Thousands of people taking to the naked streets, for this or that errand, close to home, say “hi” with neighbourly colloquy. Essential life lives with its feet firmly on the ground, growing up quickly, freeing itself from the imposed cocoon. Tel Aviv could actually become a sort of NYC of the Middle East, if given the chance.

It’s noisy and rough and rich with culture, an expressive art scene I’ve barely tapped into.

But it’s not easy to overlook the past, harder still to ignore the present situation, the family saga. The story line is exposed.

Like a junkie’s arm, take notice. The sickness of war lives here.

Though that cuts to the chase too quick, we must take some time to understand and accept the Jewish people, their DNA memory; just as we should do with any groups of persons of individuals.

I’ll share an incident to help us get started.

I rode alone on the large public bus in Jerusalem, thinking things over. When suddenly the ride ends, we’re barely stopped at the station before riders began rushing, bumping each other, having no sense of personal space, moving swiftly to get off. Resembling people anxious to get on and off the subway during rush hour, though a bit harsher than I’m used to, even more extreme than what is seen in NYC.

Alert faces and heavy energy, all-ages brisk, with the same objective, to be first, to get where they need to go; first off the bus, not caring about anything including giving someone fortunate enough to get ahead, an inch of breaking room. Even accidental delays are instantly matched with words to keep moving.

This from the appearance of a civilized society; the group was overall clean and groomed. But interesting to note that fashion is a bit dated, like modern time arrives slower (a country watching TV reruns instead of a new season might be an appropriate analogy considering that it’s a true statement, for the most part).

The opposite is the exception of the rule.

I can already witness that the way of life I saw in Tel Aviv is similar, although amplified in Jerusalem. We squeezed out of the bus. It was a free for all. They continued to push. Still no sign of a polite, “Oh, please, I see you’re first.”

This kind of rude incident repeated itself often, before my arrival into Jerusalem, making me curious about the instincts of these people.

What is living inside the Jewish DNA Memory to drive such behavior? There is much to consider, the light and the dark; the delicate balance unique to us as individuals or groups of people.

For example, on the dark side of things, just as the environment doesn’t register in the minds of those living in 3rd world countries because they are too busy struggling to survive to worry about the proper care of trash and other pollution. We can look at the same spectrum of survival instincts and say that Israelites, who, for the most part, do not live in a 3rd world environment however do live with the pressures and limitations that have shaped who they are as a people. They are a group of people trying desperately to survive, taking all measures and powers within their ability to do so. And although there is sophistication, the focus isn’t on being polite; it’s about getting ahead.

This is one simple example, I could name a few more. But no matter, every culture has it’s own flavor of manners. Israel can be a bit harsh. The question is why? What shaped this behavior and point of view?

Chapter 2

It’s interesting to see where the oppression of the Jews has taken them, up to the evolution of Israel and this continued conflict with the Palestinians.

We’ll start from the beginning and take broad stokes to paint the big picture.

The Jewish people, since the beginning of history have been kicked out of their homeland into a forced Diaspora. Made to find new ways of survival, leveraging their culture in primal bonds, they were encouraged to use brains over brawn.

More than people who owned and worked land and participated in the development of early industry, or uncomplicated people who lived a nomadic or sedentary tribal life; the Jews had to use their mind to survive, more exclusively, becoming superb thinkers — and survivors.

There are a few triggers for advancement: 1) early and broad adoption of reading and writing within their cultural community, 2) coupling of smart couples was encouraged, leading to procreation, the increased likelihood of future intelligent generations, 3) Diaspora forced the Jewish people to leave a relatively static environment and enter into new territory, giving them access to best practices around the world, but specifically in Europe, benefiting greatly from various industry development and modern enlightenments.

‘Presently we can see the Jewish people are substantially over-represented in learning and accomplishment’ across disciplines.’

The oppression started early, but culture also played its hand in the present state of affairs, the advancement of the Jewish people. Though there are other points of views, one of which I feel must be addressed first.

Charles Murray of the American Enterprise Institute, author of the controversial book on the IQ of different peoples, The Bell Curve, created a stormy discussion in 1994. He postures plainly that the genetics of people is what determines a higher IQ, versus the environment. Many thought his was a racist approach, and I can see why. He overlooked a critical fact — the matter of evolution, the why and how people evolve. He chose to focus instead on the “superiority” of one group over another. I think he’s wrong. Therefore I present the following argument.

It’s indeed the environment (time, place, things learned, observed-felt-expressed-experienced, events, family, culture, etc) that marks the product of genetics, our DNA Memory. This we know, or rather are learning (to learn more read Evolution Revolution: DNA Memory).

DNA Memory is a cross between Darwinism and Jung, with a fresh twist. Think of it this way; imagine all the lives that lived up to yours, that the memories of your parents, grandparents and beyond, that those memories live in your DNA, shaping who you are. It’s like instinct except it goes beyond fear and the desire for food, shelter, sex, etc.

I stand on the shoulder of giants. And I’m about to take much poetic license, because I am not able to prove my theory of DNA Memory scientifically, nor was Charles Murray able to prove his theory scientifically (and his book was a international best seller), rather he presented evidence, as I am about to do.

You can decide, as I am electing, if DNA Memory exists and matters.

Maybe science simply hasn’t caught up to the thought, this idea of DNA Memory. It wouldn’t be the first time (as the study of philosophy shows us), and it likely won’t be the last, but again, I leave the judgment to you.

That said I believe that DNA Memory ‘could be’ the unseen micro in the macro evolutionary factors, going beyond what evolution means in terms of skin and eye color, tracking of disease — that DNA Memory ‘might be’ a powerful tool to understand and accept how our environment shaped us, as individuals, as groups of people.

Charles Murray called Jewish and white people “superior,” but I think his idea doesn’t take into account the big picture. It’s clear specific groups of people have advanced in the modern world more than others, but the word “advanced” and “superior” have distinctly different meanings.

One way of thinking states explicitly that one group of people or a person is better than another, end of story. The other, DNA Memory, offers that we’re all equal but have had different environmental factors shaping us, with change possible even within one life.

I propose that DNA Memory produces the attributes of specific groups of people, and that DNA Memory is alive and being shaped as I write and you read. That around the world, living inside everyone, waiting for nothing, listening and learning everything, is our DNA Memory. This may seem like splitting hairs, but it certainly is not.

With that clear, let’s go back to Murray and this current case study.

He states and I agree, that the two most influential works of literature ever written were by and about Jews: the Hebrew and the Christian bibles, the so-called Old and New Testaments.

But why were these two books written by and for Jews?

Historians, Maristella Botticini and Zvi Eckstein focus on a decree issued in 64 C.E. by the martyred sage Joshua ben Gamla, high priest in the last years of the Second Temple, requiring that all males be enrolled in school by age six. The ordinance was largely adhered to, and, in the words of Murray, “Within about a century, the Jews, uniquely among the peoples of the world, had effectively established universal male literacy and numeracy.”

Cyril Darlington (who offers one of my favorite quotes: “…I have never proved anything. I do not count on doing so…What I do count on is to assemble such evidences and arguments as will make those who disagree with me feel more and more uncomfortable”). He/She argues that Jews were “decisively shaped much earlier,” during the period of the fall of Jerusalem and captivity under Babylonian King Nebuchadnezzar in 586 B.C.E.

According to the Bible (2 Kings 24:10-14), only the elite among the Israelites were taken to Babylon, leaving behind the unskilled and presumably less intelligent. The king “carried away all Jerusalem, and all the princes, and all the mighty men of valour… and all the craftsmen and the smiths; none remained, save the poorest sort of the people of the land.”

In The Great Transformation: The Beginning of our Religious Traditions, Karen Armstrong’s book points out that the Babylonian destruction of the Kingdom of Israel forced the Jewish religion to transform. Before the invasion, Judaism was a temple-based religion, with priests and holy sites. But the exodus to Babylon forced the Jews to transform their religion and make it internal, to place the temple within, instead of in a physical building.

Now we’ll take a big leap, for time sake. It helps to consider that DNA Memory compounds, that people get set in their ways (which doesn’t mean people can’t change).

The Age of Reason was a period of time characterized by breakthroughs in thinking which steered the world away from religion and more toward secularism, humanism, individualism, rationalism, and nationalism. A major break from the Middle (Dark) Ages where the Church had dominated.

At this time the human mind, rational thought, and empirical science took center stage. The less religious the Western world became, the better it treated the Jews. This doesn’t mean they were treated well, it means a new philosophy inserted itself into popular culture and had it’s influence, pushing society into a new direction. It was a new start.

For the first time, the Western world started to look at the Jew as a human being. Edicts of tolerance were issued, granting Jews certain basic (even if not equal) rights. This was a first of sorts and was the beginning. If Diaspora inspired a great transformation, then this period of secularism enabled the Jews to take a great leap forward, unhindered or rather freed from the Ghetto to which they had been largely banished.

Napoleon Bonaparte, a Corsican officer, had himself crowned Emperor of France in 1804. During the ten years he was in power, he embarked on a series of conquests, which were unprecedented in modern history in terms of his rapid advance through Europe. As Napoleon marched through Europe, he liberated Jews from their ghettos. The idea of liberating the Jews and granting them civil rights had preceded him, but he pushed it forward. Napoleon was fascinated with the Jews, although he did not understand them. He wanted them to be accepted by the rest of European society.

It’s my opinion that once the Jews were freed enough, and able to participate in society, for the most part and in unlimited ways, that they were better suited, more so than many other groups of peoples, to benefit and contribute to the European enlightenment. Why? Because their DNA Memory was well evolved to take these learned studies and put them to more advanced practice. Therefore it was the result of their culture, their oppression, and their forced Diaspora, that they learned the best practices of the modern world.

In fact the Jews had their own enlightenment, a intellectual and social revolution named ‘Haskalah’ (some Jews began to shave beards, abandon Yiddish in favor of local languages and participate in secular culture, embracing rationalism, non-Jewish education, supplementing Talmudic studies) which no doubt contributed to the broader European enlightenment.

Their keen sense of survival took them to another level. It was never easy. In fact, survival for the Jewish people was always a battle that required a sharp mind and hardened spirit.

‘Once the gates of the ghettos were thrown open, the Jews rose to the top quickly, gaining prominence and wealth. This doesn’t mean that, despite their achievement, they were accepted into general society. The times had changed, but not that much.’

World War II brought incredible hardship for the Jewish people. It was devastating beyond imagination and words. I’m not about to downplay it. Facts/History we know, or certainly should know.

‘By 1931, shortly before the Holocaust, 92% of the world’s Jewish population was European.’

The United States of America and other ‘allied countries’ came to the defense of the Jewish people and other minorities under attack, liberating them from torture and extinction at the hands of the Nazi’s, ending one of the worst genocides of all-time.

A transformation happened, which takes us to the first national Jewish State: Israel

But firstly we must understand how the Muslims fit in; how it was possible that the Jewish people were “given” a large piece of what was historically known as Palestine.

This saga begins with the aftermath of “the Great War” World War I. The empowered, though economically damaged allied nations launched the League of Nations. During the Paris Peace Conference, the precursor to the UN, it was agreed that Britain had administrative power over Palestine, “until such time as they are able to stand alone.”

They?

The British Majesty held on to the land for over 20 years, delaying a decision, and ignoring the Zionist movement and Palestinians. The decision took time and came with indecision, but it eventually came.

‘Whereas the Principal Allied Powers have also agreed that the Mandatory should be responsible for putting into effect the declaration originally made on November 2nd, 1917, by the Government of His Britannic Majesty, and adopted by the said Powers, in favor of the establishment in Palestine of a national home for the Jewish people, it being clearly understood that nothing should be done which might prejudice the civil and religious rights of existing non-Jewish communities in Palestine, or the rights and political status enjoyed by Jews in any other country.’

Chapter 3

Let’s fast-forward to the present day, to review the lay of the land, Israel and that of the present and compounded Jewish DNA Memory.

On the bright side we can tally many known accomplishments achieved by Jewish people: 126 Noble Peace Prizes, 56% of non-fiction Pulitzer winners.

David Brook’s recent article, The Tel Aviv Cluster outlines the situation well, how advanced the Jewish people have become. I was excited to read this article — fodder for my own compounding thoughts.

Israel is considered the start-up capital of the world, rewarded for how smart they are in adapting to the technology revolution and globalization, free trade, banking, science and engineering. The rate of their patent filings is up to par with the United States (the far and away leader).

Although there are other ways to count or measure success, Israel’s GDP is lagging behind that of America (a key quality of life indicator). Israel understands this and is working hard to move up in the world, quickly becoming innovative leaders. Advanced in taking cues from around the world, they also have their own unique approach to innovation and research.

I don’t have to site Albert Einstein in much detail because we all know how much his theories have shaped the modern world; but he didn’t have much to do with Israel (opting not to become it’s first Prime Minster), so we’ll move on.

Today Israel offers a sophisticated modern life, a vibrant mix of European, American and Middle Eastern culture. Over the last ten years the little nation that could has begun to break free of it’s drugged and cocooned life. Only recently did the Jewish state decide to fully restore and build anew the spirit of their own and original vision.

It’s taken the nation over 60 years (celebrating this monumental anniversary in 2009; Zionist would say it’s 100 years). Expansion and upgrade is constant, new happenings all around, similar to the growth over the past decade in the United States and elsewhere around the world — minus the burst — Israel is hitting it’s stride.

Tel Aviv is the start-up nation, the new Silicon Valley and thriving in a healthy financial system. Israel is rising as other Western nations are on the downward spiral. And now that this first and only Jewish nation has momentum, in what it considers the right direction, it’s not about to give up an inch.

And that is the problem it now faces, the dark side of the current state of affairs. For the most part the Jewish people are no longer oppressed, but sadly Israel is presently acting, in many ways, as the oppressor.

Israel’s people have evolved to a point where its fear is turning an ugly head, a living contradiction.

This takes us to the current relationship between the Palestinians and the Jews, the cousins.

The war between the Arabs and the Jews, erupted upon the termination of the British Mandate of Palestine in mid-May 1948, when it was left to Israel to figure out how to manage the developed chaos, followed by additional phases of civil war. And the war continues. When you’re in Israel you can see this reality reflected in the heaviness of the mind, body – the soul of various groups of people, the DNA Memory.

Foreigners can get a fair idea of what is happening, despite not having been there. It’s spread all over the news, open bleeding wounds in Gaza and the West Bank, East Jerusalem.

(Featured Album: Check out the World Press 09’ photo album to get an idea of what war looks like, from inside the zone.)

We have access to multiple readings, the story on the ground. And the Internet opens the doors wide to various points of views.

I will respectfully edit into a few thoughtful bites, Ehud Yaari’s March 2010 Foreign Affairs Magazine essay, Armistice Now in which he calls for an, ‘interim agreement for Israel and Palestine.’

‘More than 16 years after the euphoria of the Oslo accords, the Israelis and the Palestinians have still not reached a final-status peace-agreement. And more recently the Hamas victory in the January 2006 Palestinian legislative elections and its military takeover of the Gaza strip in June 2007 — have aggregated the conflict.

He writes that, ‘George W. Bush’s “road map for peace,” which proposed provisional boundaries, by striving to reach interim agreements on all issues of Jerusalem, the fate of the Palestinian referees, and the permanent boundaries, which were envisioned as phase three of Bush’s road, that these giant steps generally result in deadlock.’

It doesn’t help that people on the ground are getting jaded, on both sides,‘The separation barrier has instilled in many a sense of insulation, and they (the Jews) are no longer curious about what happens on the other side. Coverage of the Palestinian affairs by the Israeli media has dropped to unprecedented lows, reflecting an increasingly prevalent view of the Palestinian as bothersome neighbors rather than future partners. In the absence of a negotiated settlement, there is also a risk that Palestinians might seek to advance their interests through a third intifada. Some leading Fatah personalities, such as Hani Masri, have urged partnership with Hamas on a platform that “opens all options” — including violent ones.’

Plus it’s been said, ‘that a small sovereign state within the pre-1967 boundaries has never been a fundamental goal of the Palestinian nationalism; instead national consciousness has historically focused on avenging the loss of Arab land.’

‘The past and powerful PA President Yasir Arafat told that he believed statehood could potentially become a “sovereign cage.”

In other words, the Palestinian community will (or wants to) accelerate its collapse into Israel’s unwilling arms, in effect accomplishing by stealth, the sort of Arab demographic dominance that Israeli leaders have for decades sought to avoid by occupying, rather than annexing, the Palestinian territories.’

‘Most Palestinians wish to get rid of Israeli control but do not necessarily strive to see the land divided, looking to see a weak, jointly run central government and/or two strong autonomous governments without necessarily demarcating geographic borders between them.’

‘Another popular solution among Palestinians leaders is a unitary state, which, for purely demographic reasons, would eventually be controlled by an Arab majority.

Needless to say, the Israelis would never accept either scenario, which is precisely why (the author of this essay believes) Israel must offer Palestinian statehood for less than peace before the Palestinian and their leaders abandon the two-state model altogether.’

Mr. Yaair ended his peace-by-peace essay with the following conclusions, ‘Skeptics of an interim approach will argue that the official position of the PA has not changed: it continues to insist on a final-status agreement and rejects the concept of a Palestinian state within provisional boundaries.’

Others believe, ‘Signing an armistice agreement would be the greatest break-through in Arab-Israeli peacemaking since the 1994 peace treaty with Jordan. It could constitute a major step toward ending occupation, fundamentally reconfigure the conflict, and make its prospects for a final-status agreement far brighter than ever before.’

I share these snippets with you because I believe he has insightful opinions, studied at ground zero. I give him much respect. This situation in Israel, between the Jews, Israelites and Palestinians, Middle Eastern Muslims — is without a doubt fragile, unfortunate — and worsening.

It’s understandable why so many people, including Mr. Yaair, are desperately coming up with diplomatic options. And the United States is more than willing to put itself in the middle. Americans know all too well how much an unstable Middle East hurts the U.S. and Western society, our own idea of security.

I agree with him. I am privy to his sense of things, but want to call into question, for the sake of better understanding, the intentions and objectives of each agent at the table. DNA Memory is a tool that may help us like never before.

CHAPTER 4

We’ll shift from the theoretical to reality. Back to the DNA trek in order to help illuminate the research, put it into an everyday perspective.

It’s time to take the journey to common ground.

Jerusalem is the contested capital of Israel of what has been historically called Palestine, the bigger of the two main cities. I was told Jerusalem is the modern, not offering the same variety as Tel Aviv. I was curious and open to what Jerusalem would bring, having no idea what to expect and having no expectations other than the lingering imprints, from discussions in Tel Aviv.

I came to terms with the generalities and contradictions enough to stay in step and make deeper observations. Though I must humbly admit, presently, there is no way, as of this writing, or ever, that I may ever fully understand. I make this disclaimer now, before I take you with me, into the Old City.

I arrived to the relatively new central bus station in Jerusalem, which in no way lives up to Tel Aviv’s Bauhaus processors or the cutting-edge design popping up like babies around Israel, but no matter. After much time to think I understand well that my mission is elsewhere. The Old City is the true center of Jerusalem; it defines Israel as a whole. It’s the central battleground between the Jews and Muslims. I finally arrived after 3 weeks in Tel Aviv and a 45-minute bus ride.

Inside the station were shops selling luxuries, American fast food outlets like every other country I have visited, alongside mom-and-pop-shops selling Shawarma, in the same hall with old market items like locally made blankets, jewelry, etc.

There were Israeli army kids; girls and boys posted at each entrance and exit. I call them kids because they are in fact quite young (usually between 18-20). Posting, smiling in a way only the young do though with a tinge or a dose of too much pressure. They stand and walk around strategic points. Dressed in their plain all-green uniforms, their pants hang low and are stuffed into their belts with high black boots and steel toes, shouldering their M16 rifles, they watched me closely.

I certainly did not match anyone in the mob of people, but they saw I was innocent enough, letting me be. Curious because I was alone, and didn’t take a tour, rather a public bus full of locals, direct from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem.

It took me a little while to find the correct exit, but eventually I got past my thoughts, security and left the bus station. I found the taxi line and was dropped off at a hostel about 10 minutes away, stored my bag and took a stroll.

I hit the streets, the main part of the Midrachov, Ben Yehuda Street. I saw Hasidic Jews rapping on the corner, trying to sell albums. I saw the mix of tourists and locals buying this or that, having dinner, and meeting friends for drinks. I had a run in with Jews from Brazil that think Americans are stupid, though I only overheard and caught the end of the conversation. I went to bed early but was kept up late from a dance club that went past 4AM in the morning, again Hasidfic Jews having a good time.

By the time the next morning came I was ready to move on.

Walking up to the Old City made me feel small and keenly alive, like a character in the Voltaire book, Micromégas, a micro in the a eco-system or to put another way, one single life (bios) in the grand scale of life (zoe). Something about it was humbling.

I entered the Old City, moving slowly through a line. There was a temporary fence forcing a straight entrance line with people from all corners of the world walking one in front of the other, blocked from walking freely because of construction in the middle of the road. We walked in a single line for a time before splitting off when the construction barrier ended.

Interesting to watch individual tourists, people, turn back into groups quickly following guides into four main quadrants of the Old City. The Jewish Quarter, The Christian Quarter, The Armenia Quarter and the Muslim Quarter. I watched this for a moment, left alone with my sense of freedom, and decide to take my own path, not following any one person or group.

My plan was to visit the Western Wall first. But I approached this labyrinth of the Old City like the rest of my DNA trek. The idea was to see where I would go, naturally. And I got lost, which is very easy in the Old City. A friendly man saw my confusion, asked me where I wanted to go, answering my reply by pointing me in the direction of the Western Wall, down the hill. I walked on. Kids and persons of all ages are out, enjoying the sun. It rarely rains in Israel, maybe a couple weeks a year, if they’re lucky, so even though it’s winter, it’s lovely outside, warm, with blue skies, a few cumulus clouds, scattered bright white puffs changing shapes, giving even more character to the environment and seemingly moving in the same direction as me.

I enjoyed the walk around the Old City, watching, as I passed, young boys playing futbol within a semi-enclosed area, low walls made of white rock and an edge view of the Mt. of Olives.

A twenty-something couple snuggling up, sitting on another low barrier wall, reading to each other, something they both find interesting, stop to look up at me as I approach. I pass a two-storey religious school with a large courtyard in front, which is either letting out for a break or starting. I don’t see many tourists, but it’s starting to get crowded with people.

Teachers lead a school of little boys and girls who look as happy as can be, though there is definitely a consistent energy about them, something they share, coming off their skin, like a weight pushing through the air, or maybe like the scent of a looming storm.

Old men working various trade shops have felt this weight for too long, and it shows on their face, like gravity is heavier for them here. I don’t see many older women, but do see scattered soldiers many of them young ladies.

I asked for directions again, to make sure I’m on the right path. I give it a try in Hebrew, but the young couple helps me in English. Most people here speak English, the universal language. For this, I am very lucky and grateful.

They tell me I’m going the right way, so I keep on down the hill and end up a bit lost, again, or so I thought, walking down a hill with no exit, into a tight corridor with nothing in sight, surrounded by tall walls.

Not sure again because it looks as though I’ve hit a dead end, I pick up the pace to reach a young Arab man who is alone crafting something with his hands, sitting on a raggedy chair some meters away. The only person within sight, I walk up to him and look in his eyes to ask my question when another man, an Englishman, coming out of what seems like nowhere, cuts me off from my asking.

I figure out seconds later he’d returned from my target. This sudden stranger gives me a look I can’t decipher, says, “You found it” and points to what is now behind me, opposite of the man in the chair. I spin around. There is a hand made sign pointing to a much smaller, darker corridor, which says something like ‘This way to the Western Wall.’

I turn back, to find the mysterious man is gone, walking fast up the hill. The young Arab man, who stares at me, acknowledges the odd exchange with a smirk and nods for me to follow the sign.

This is a local entrance. I apparently missed the road that tourists take, on the complete opposite side, near the parking lot. I make my way through this tight path and end up at security. The guards look me up-and-down, like, ‘who are you to come this way, and alone…’ but take me through the process, check my bag. The security is like that of flying, they x-ray bags, and each person must pass through a weapon detector.

I get a reserved smile though not much eye contact as I pass through, retrieve my things and with my own smile I nod, enter into the wide-open space.

I’ve made it to the Western Wall. I take my time walking down the slope to get as close as I can to this massive wall, but before I do, veer left to read some sort of introduction piece which gives written context of this sacred site in both Hebrew and English. Interestingly it also frames a prayer ‘My house is a house of prayer for all peoples (Isaiah 56:7)’

Sadly this is not true, since Muslim’s are not allowed to share this site, though I’m not sure many would want to, the point is Muslims are restricted to this entire secured area.

The Jews believe this wall, to which they rock, pray and wail, is as close as they can get to the beginnings of the world, where God took the ashes from the land and made Adam, and of course there is much more, where Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son Isaac. Much has happened here.

The Temple Mount, the area above the Western Wall, is the location of the Dome of the Rock, not a mosque, a shrine built for a purpose. For all to see the glory of Islam hoping to bring together the monotheistic religions. Underneath the Dome houses the Foundation Stone aka the Rock, quite possibly the holiest spot for Jews.

The Dome of the Rock could be standing directly over the site of the Holy of Holies of both Solomon’s Temple and Herod’s Temple. This too is restricted. Jews are not allowed in, for a few reasons but mostly because Muslims believe this was the ultimate destination for Muhammad, where he descended on his night journey, with his horse, into the heavens. They believe it is theirs alone, a sacred spot for Muslims.

This information comes to me later, because at the time I simply read the stone and observe.

No authority asked about my possible religion. So it could be said, profiling could be happening and/or I looked neither Jewish nor Muslim; and/or it’s not that strict. I can affirm it was harder for me to get into the Dome of the Rock as I was thoroughly questioned as to where I came from, what I was doing there.

While I’m still at the Western Wall, I made my way to the only side I was allowed, because of course, this too is segregated, men to the left, woman to the right. I take my place, find a seat, close my eyes and make one of the most earnest prayers of my life. I figure, why not? No harm. No foul. And true to my own beliefs, it was an agnostic prayer of peace for all cultures and creeds.

About twenty minutes later, I take my prayer, written on a small piece of paper, rolled up tight, to the wall and did what millions have done, stuck it between two stones with countless other notes, personal prayers from people around the world. The Jewish authorities release these prayers, not to be thrown away; each piece of paper is buried, in an appropriate cemetery, with the mass of others. Or so I’ve been told.

At this point I want to go up and see the Dome of the Rock, this famous Temple Mount, but find it myself, with no map in hand, I decided to go out where I came in and try to find a different entrance.

I went out of the Western Wall, spitting me back into the Old City. I walk back up the hill and went right, a new direction, which takes me directly into the Muslim Quarter, though at the time I didn’t realise. I walked through markets selling everything under the sun, or rather, in the shade.

There is no roof, just an everlasting open market, but the walls are so high at points, it blocks much of the sun and therefore direction. The paved streets are covered with stones run smooth with foot traffic from countless generations.

The walls and streets surrounding pedestrians in stone reminded me of the ancient city, possibly the oldest port in the world, located in Jaffa, Tel Aviv; not to mention other ancient buildings, castles and the like, that I’ve seen around the world.

Architecture is not only beautiful it has a voice, and it tattle-tales. The past is exposed with the materials, the leaders vision, ability, execution open for all to opine.

Stone on top of stone, pathways, walls, ceilings, sturdy; the color and texture telling it’s own story. Old and makeshift, like walking through a movie set; the Old City is alive, locals selling to their own and tourist alike, everything you could possibly need or want.

But I’m not a buyer, so I don’t take much time to see the goods. I want access to the Temple Mount so I’m walking fast trusting my gut to take me where I need to be.

I turn another corner to see an older man with open honest looking blue eyes. He made direct contact. He came almost too close and says, “Where do you want to go?” Without stopping, which is weird because I usually take the time to chat with locals, in fact, it’s a priority objective; I replied to him at the exact time I see a bright light at the end of the corridor he’s facing, I answer him without hesitating “This way, thank you.” I turned into the dark alley, leaving the man to repeat his question to my back as I walked away.

I went decidedly but unknowing towards the blinding vision.

Again, I walked fast, passing the merchant offerings. I was on a mission. Another man, this time in his twenties, walked out of his shop keeping up with my pace because again I don’t stop, “You can’t go this way.” For some reason, I choose not to listen to him either, again, weird, and say politely, “I want to see for myself, thank you.” to which his reply was “OK, when you figure it out, come back and have tea with me.” I give a grateful smile, starting to feel like I shouldn’t have passed so quickly by the older man, and say, “OK.”

I slowed down my pace as I started up the stairs, not knowing what’s behind that poltergeist scene that is drawing me in, when two soldiers stop me, rifles ready, “Stop.” I continued forward, “Stop! You cannot enter here!” To this I finally come out of my trance, stop and face them. They same in an echo, “You need to go back to the Western entrance, this is for Muslims only.”

Apparently I walked straight up to the holiest entrance for Muslims into the Temple Mount.

Finally I understand the fuss and give my deepest respect, chat with the soldiers who lighten up on me and give me proper directions. The exchange ended nice and I turned around to share some tea with a new friend, the young man.

He softly laughed when I came up to this shop. I smiled and shrugged, “I had to see for myself…” and winked. He laughed louder this time and with a bigger smile, asked “Do you like sugar in your tea” I say that I don’t and with that he sits me down and disappears for a few minutes. This gives me time to review his shop. It’s the size of a large walk-in closet in some American homes. He has mostly touristy goods, porcelain Old City replicas in various sizes and lovely blankets, nothing original however, and certainly not enough of a selection to compete with the stores around him. It looks like he’s getting started.

When he returns we go through the usual question and answer series; where I’m from, what I’m doing, how old I am, why am I doing this, where am I staying, for how long, what’s next, etc. I ask him many of the same questions, also some of which are sensitive about his faith, how he practices his religion, interpretations of Jihad. I admit to him I’ve only met or have had few significant friendships with Muslims, and I’m very curious, open, and agnostic. The latter made him curious. He was surprised that I would want to come to Jerusalem even though I’m not religious.

To cut to the point, he wants nothing to do with a religious war. He wants to live a life like any other twenty-something kid. He likes to dance. He likes girls. He has dreams like all of us, his vision is to turn his little shop, with the help of his Father, into a profitable business. He doesn’t want to work for somebody else.

We enjoy our time together, learning a few things about our different cultures when I take my leave. The running around made me hungry. He must stay and manage the shop. I must continue my journey, but first get some lunch. We exchange info and I go on my way, walking back up to find myself a bit lost again, but that is fine because three young Muslim boys offer help, to find “The best hummus in the world.”

They joked and laughed the whole time we walked back up the hill, taking me through the maze, surely a path I would not have found on my own, a short cut. They were happy to think they hustled the lost American for some money. I let them have the glory, gave each of them 10 shekels once we got to our destination.

As I’m waiting for my food I go over what’s happened so far, much to think about; the men and woman at the Western Wall, the locals, the interesting groups of religious tourists across countless denominations, my chat with the young man. But I can’t get the bright blue eyes of that older man out of my head. He was a peaceful creature. He wanted to help me and I plowed right along my path. I plainly ignored him. And I think, what very strange behavior. Why did I do that?

The food came just in time. Distracted from my thoughts, focused on satisfying my hearty appetite, I ate some of the best food in the world.

Quick to get back on track, or my trek, I made way through the maze of the Old City streets on my own, to get to the Temple Mount. I had to, again, go through the security gate for the Western Wall, the security gate I accidentally found earlier, and the only way I know.

The Western entrance, the one I was supposed to take the first time, is also the entrance to the Temple of the Dome. Therefore I entered through the local side, and exited on the Western side, to get to the Temple of the Mount entrance, a bit confusing but easy enough.

The Temple Mount was closed for Muslim prayer so I was in line with more than 50 or so people, waiting for this new security gate to open up and let us in, when appropriate.

The line kept growing, and soon the area was crowded with people, some waiting in line with me, others using the other security gate to get into the Western Wall. I wasn’t the only one in line to find it disarming that troops of Israeli soldiers began to line-up, hundreds of them moving their way into the Jewish monument. They carried very large personal bags, walking in small cliqués, smiling, laughing, again, young kids looking more like summer camp participants than alert soldiers, a new generation.

The sickness of war steals 2-3 years of each young persons life, at least. But, what they become is quite impressive. I don’t see any other nation (though similar to Western countries) educating and training their young like Israel. They find the best and make them better, placing top people in relevant positions of power both in the military and after, in civil life. Theirs is an efficient and obviously effective system, one that most citizens are proud of, more, the kids themselves are proud, though in an almost snobbish way.

Finally the line starts to move and we walk up the wood path, which feels like a long structured environment, like an amusement park, a system for organizing large groups of people, moving them from one location to other, through ropes and blockades except this path to the Temple Mount barely felt safe as we walk on creaking wood planks to the top.

Once through another line of security and the herd mechanism, we’re received by another line of armed Jordanian soldiers before being allowed entrance, not really welcomed, to the Temple Mount. It’s a bit overwhelming to be in this place, the Old City — and the Temple Mount was even more intense.

I wanted to soak it all up, but felt like I didn’t know where to start when I hear a voice directed at me say, “Are you going to pass me again?” and sure enough, the older man I had so rudely past earlier was standing to my left and behind me. I immediately say “Hi! It’s nice to see you again.” And he says, “I came here to wait for you.”

This is how our friendship started. He told me that he felt it was important for him to show me around the Old City, that he wanted to be my guide. He expressed his wish for peace, to end the war between the Arabs and the Jews. All this before we even exchange names.

He wanted me to be very clear. He hoped I would listen to what he had to say, that he had an important message of peace. I wasn’t sure what to think of his genuine wish, but felt it was worth my time to have a local show me around. He was born and raised in the Old City, where he continues to live with extended family. He is the head of a very large household.

His people were originally from Iran but have lived in Palestine for thousands of years. That is how he looks at it, from an ancient timeline. He’s been a guide for twenty of his fifty-something years.

We spent the next couple days together. First he walked me around Temple Mount explaining the history of each gate, delivering if I wanted it or not, the perspective of each religion. He briefly went over the history of the Ottoman Empire and the last development of the Old City, what we see today versus the layer upon layer of development below.

He pointed out that the Golden Gate has special meaning, the entrance for the next Jewish messiah, or the return of Jesus. Muslims put their graves there to block that entrance, and sealed off the Gate – exactly to stop any so called Jewish messiah from returning. Jews won’t walk on graves, so that is the idea with not only sealing off the gate but also planting graves in front of its entrance. To what extreme these two cousins fight each other; it makes my new friend shake his head.

He took me to his personal or secret spot, after I told him that I need to take some time to “meditate”, that I wanted to give the same prayer here as I did at the Western Wall, for purely symbolic reasons. We walked towards the Golden Gate and we sat down on a short wall. He pointed out that we were inline with the Church behind me, the Mosque and front of us, and the temple beyond that. This is his praying spot, also for peace.

We both sat quiet for about 20 minutes, or until we were forced to leave the Temple Mount as it closed again. All non-Muslims were quickly ushered out.

After we went to get a better view of the city, from atop of the Lutheran church tower. He went through a dizzyingly diatribe about the development of various points of interests and the various beliefs associated with each monuments, such as the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the final stop for the crucified Jesus after his purported Via Dolorosa “Way of Grief” or “Way of Suffering”, down the winding hillside into the Old City, a holy place for countless Christian denominations.

The steps up were exhausting. The steps down were mellowing.

Ready for a rest and a snack, he took me to get authentic Arab food, a delicious dessert called Akanfe made of honey and cheese, in one of his favorite local spots. It was there, in a 100% Muslim atmosphere that I asked him the same questions I asked the young man. With more time we went into the subjects a bit deeper.

His response was very similar to the young man, though more optimistic. He believes that peace is possible, that there is a way to find peace through understanding and acceptance, that we must share natural resources, land and economies.

He uses a biblical explanation to showcase the misunderstanding between these two distant cousins. That this animosity goes all the way back to Abraham. The Jews are descendants of Abraham’s son Isaac. The Arabs are descendants of Abraham’s son Ishmael. With Ishmael being the son of a slave woman (Genesis 16:1-16) and Isaac being the promised son who would inherit the blessings of Abraham (Genesis 21:1-3), obviously there would be some animosity between the two sons. As a result of Ishmael’s mocking Isaac (Genesis 21:9), Sarah talked Abraham into sending Hagar and Ishmael away (Genesis 21:11-21). Likely, this caused even more contempt in Ishmael’s heart towards Isaac, if you take this as historic retelling, as I do.

Back to my guide’s point of view, “It is devastating, what has happened. But does not have to be fatalistic for Jerusalem, or the world at large.” He believes, “It’s the fault of the politicians and so-called leaders that there is this continued war.” That everyday people want peace, are sick of the fight and want to find a new way forward.

He gave me hope. As did, I should mention, my conversations with friends in Tel Aviv. It’s important for me to note one such conversation, with a young veteran of the recent 2006 or what some call the Second Lebanon War.

Instead of distrusting and disliking Muslims, which could be easy to do, human nature, if you will, because of his war experience; instead this young man is taking time, trying to convince his friends that it is in the best interests of the Jews, of Israel, to befriend and help increase the quality of the lives of neighboring Muslims.

He shared beautiful stories of growing up on a Kibbutz, with a Mother who teaches music, a form of art therapy for Muslim children, and his father, a farmer, sharing his knowledge with local Muslim villages, neighbors. (In fact this twenty-something man has a vision, something very unique to offer the world at large, a sort of Marshall Plan for the Middle East, though not 100% original, totally possible.)

Back to the story, to the older Muslim Palestinian peace activist, or as he predicted, my new friend; our connection came late but we eventually enjoyed each other like old buddies. It was blessing that made both of us happy as we continued our exploration with a trip up the hill, to Mount of Olives. But those happy feelings didn’t last long before the bright sun shown a sad reality, hitting both of us in the gut pretty hard.

East Jerusalem and the Muslim neighborhoods are depressing. There is a radical difference between even the worst Jewish neighborhoods and Muslim territories that look more like, or could actually be called, a 3rd world living environment, not quite developing communities.

Dirty unmaintained street corners full of trash, large painted wood or slightly modern but still archaic signs in front of shoddy looking shops, young kids lacking clean cloths and showers playing in the streets side-by-side with broken down cars. Homes look patched together, little to no (or at least working) air-conditioning units are visible. Exposed rebar and open roofs are common in neighborhoods, with unfinished homes, promises of future generations. Food is being made and sold on broken curbsides. The look in the eye of kids gives a sense of distrustful curiosity. The look in the eye of young men and woman could be called a distrust and maybe even hatred; it is hard to say because more than anything they all look jaded.

The Muslim area has a much difficult reality then say Ben Yehuda Street, where I hung out the night before in the modern part of Jerusalem, controlled by the Jews. That area, although known to have terrorist attacks, was flowing freely with commerce of various goods in clean well maintained shops, with tourists and locals smiling, walking around having a good time.

Instead East Jerusalem looks patently like the struggle it is. And these very different if not difficult living conditions are literally blocks away from brand new Jewish malls and luxury housing, and in fact, Israel has decided to move-in some Palestinian areas to expand development.

We made our way to East Jerusalem by taking a bus up the winding hill and walked through a small piece on our way to the Church of Pastor Naster, the place where it is said Jesus first recited the Lord’s Prayer. It now offers the prayer in 62 different languages.

This means that tourists around the world must go through this contested territory, the area where the Palestinians want to create their own capital, side-by-side with Israel; to get to major monuments. This is fine, without matter — if only it were safe. Sadly East Jerusalem is not always safe, rather it is a war zone, not quite like the West Bank or Gaza, but the likes of a war zone nonetheless — so I’m grateful my friend is with me as we pass through, on our way to the next stop on our journey.

This time a Catholic nun sought me out. And this time I stopped and happily took the time to answer her questions, having learned it is worth my time.

My answers made her happy (I asked her where she’s from: Southern California, Orange Country, Irvine). She was thin, short and humped over, but still strong. Her Catholic dress and head coverings, very clean. When we finished the basics of getting to know each other we looked deeply into each other’s eyes and for a moment didn’t speak as our smiles grew. It was marvelous. We seemed to make some sort of unknown connection. I still don’t know why she took to me, but I know why I liked her. She was all love and smiles, all too quick to take our minds off the reality in which she was surrounded and into the world of her religion, her sanctuary, a new storyline.

And without any sort of announcement she started walking us around, giving a personal tour of her special place. This may seem like a comprehensible act but the sentiment was surprisingly sweet. Not that these nuns are not usually nice, of course they mostly are, but they don’t go about giving personal tours and making sure each person leaves with a handful of free things to help you remember the place, and them – or so my guide tells me. He was very surprised saying, “She’s always welcoming, but I’ve never seen her do that.”

Our last moment matched the strange happenings of the inclusive journey around of the Old City.

After our dinner I went about ordering tea, when he interrupted saying, “No sugar, right?” which I replied, “Yes, how did you know that?”

Finishing our order before he would answer, he said that he followed me when I walked up to the blinding light, the Muslim entrance to the Temple Mount. I hadn’t seen him there, but he said he stayed close-by, to make sure I would be all right.

And when I went into the young man’s shop he, my future guide, is the one, out of my sight, prepared my tea and asked the young man to welcome me. He said the young man was surprised, as they know each other and this was obviously odd behavior for a guide to not only buy and make tea for a stranger, but also then not introduce himself. In other words, this older man was taking care of me before we exchanged names, before we became friends, before knowing anything about me, wanting nothing in return (though I did pay him for his time, he didn’t accept the normal day rate).

I asked him why he was so kind to me. He said, “I had a feeling. I wanted to be your friend.”

CHAPTER 5

My guide and new friend wasn’t the only Muslim I’ve spent time with. I was honored to make a connection with a few and had serious, meaningful discussion with half dozen Muslim across Israel and Egypt; some of which were or had strong ties with Palestinians.

A month after my trip to Jerusalem I traveled to Egypt seeking to get a sense of Israel’s relationship with its neighbor, to get a broader Muslim perspective of what is happening between Israel and the Palestinians. Plus it was about time that I studied father back in history, ancient Egyptian culture, hoping to find a thread of DNA Memory in tribal people still living in much of the same ways as their ancient forefathers, which I did (though I will save those findings for the next piece, regarding the final leg of the DNA trek to Tanzania, Africa).

I travelled from the Sinai Desert, the Red Sea (the same sea that the original migrating tribes from Africa crossed, expanding from there the human race around the world, or so science says). Then I made my way up to Cairo, father North to Alexandria, the beautiful Mediterranean city infamous for it ancient and more recently, new library. A city and library still shaping minds and alluring a sense of hope for people around the world; Arabs, Muslims central to the cause.

It was a valuable experience. Egypt’s history, like the nation of Israel, is telling; exposing the issues behind the current state of affairs.

Despondently I must announce that modern Cairo, and to a large extent Egypt’s overall heyday, is in the past. Its beauty has a dark shadow looming over the city, becoming darker with that past glory saying goodnight. I’m not sure the locals take notice, but as visitor it’s all I can do to hope Cairo sees another, even brighter clearer day.

When you drive into Cairo you enter a black and white world, all color is lost in the thick pollution clogging the air (offering one of it not the worst air quality in the region), it soon chokes your lungs and adds a dirty film on just about everything, hair, skin, the buildings show each layer. The litter clutters the streets with unemployed and disadvantaged persons. The upper percent are nowhere to be found, outside television and corruption.

I remember a few years ago one of Egypt’s most prominent political dissident and a one-time presidential candidate, Ayman Nour, was unexpectedly released from prison after the United States and European governments had pressed for years to have him set free.

Mr. Nour’s imprisonment ended Egypt’s brief experiment with allowing opposition politics to flourish. His Al Gahd Party had become the only legal opposition with a growing, anti-establishment following. In 2005 Mr. Nour garnered 600,000 votes in his bid for the presidency, placing a distant second behind Mr. Mubarak in a race controlled by the president’s governing party.

Where are the dissident voices of today?

I asked a taxi driver to give me some examples of what President Mubarak had accomplished for his country, how the leadership was working to improve the living conditions and offer more opportunity. The driver looked at me squarely in the rear view mirror, and put his hand over his mouth suggesting it’s not OK to speak his mind.

Enough said, or well, you get the point.

Other people, new friends tried to convince me that I needed more time to see the real Cairo. I accept this, as that is true of my hometown, Los Angeles. But there is a stark contrast between what is visible in Cairo and what is visible in Los Angeles, quality of life indicators that are easy enough to figure out. Plus there is plenty of information online [links added in the footnotes of this essay] that back-up my impressions.

More important and for the sake of this discussion, Egypt bitterly opposed the UN partition of Palestine in 1948 and played an important role in the Arab-Israeli Wars that followed. Even though Egypt has ratified an armistice with Israel, its relations continue to be tense.

This relationship is critical, which is why United States President Barack Obama leveraged Cairo as the location for an important speech on and directed to the Muslim world. He highlighted human rights, taking aim at terrorist organizations that do not represent the majority of Muslims, pledging friendship with true and peaceful Arab and Muslim nations and communities. And though I don’t think he’s lived up, quite yet, to the brilliantly orated rhetoric — he’s saying the right things, he is trying.

“Mutual interests and respect,” central to his point. He sited ancient Islam in educating Europe and having its role in the enviable enlightenments. Even though some might contest that our bedrocks of modern academics and scholarship, enlightenment periods and movements, was delivered to the Western world via many ancient sources, some of which were Arab versus Islamic accomplishments.

I argue that is a bewildered battle of disrespect, or so my logic lands because in the history of the world, no cultural or linguistic group looms larger than Semitic peoples. Originating from the Arabian Peninsula, the Semitic people are responsible for the first civilizations, three major world religions, and a set of cultural practices that have been more globalized or universalized than any other peoples, including the Chinese and Europeans.

Therefore my journey into Egypt was needed and made for some interesting conversations in what is assuredly a modern and moderate, yes, I’ll repeat, a moderate Muslim country.

And I’ll preface the following discussions with a fact that the people I spoke to spoke English, and no doubt, that level of education made a huge difference in how people related to me, the United States, the West as a whole, and likely, Israel. I’m not ignorant to this important fact. If I had an interpreter who could help me interview locals in their native Arabic I may be sharing a much different story.

There is an optimistic way to look at this, which of course I have found and will share. English as a universal language has a few, if not many, advantages. There are numerous advantages to having a cultural (such as Hebrew and Arabic) and universal language (such as English).

From Egyptian service workers, to locals on a bus ride to Cairo, to a young man who recently completed his masters in Middle Eastern studies and a manger at one of the finest and oldest hotels in all of Egypt; they told me the same thing, in one-way or another. They were surprisingly consistent though each was an independent conversation.

Those with little education believe everything in the Qur’an and what their leaders told them was “truth.” Those with more education and curious minds believe the overall philosophy behind the Qur’an to be good with “truth” found in a broader message.

It’s their culture and it’s a part of who they are.

About 50% of the Muslim men told me they interpret Jihad as a holy war, one to wage against all the non-believers, but again it was split along educational history with others expressing the views of ‘others’ versus themselves, and each discussion came with a caveat that 100% of them shared, “We do not want war.”

The more educated the person, the more likely they believe that Jihad can have a more peaceful, personal meaning. So maybe you’re realizing something as you read this as I did when I was witness.

Education is critical to peace.

Also the Muslim men I spoke to unanimously said more than anything, that Islam is a culture of good people, and that the radical fundamentalist did not represent them.

The flip side of the story is that Jews are not well liked, in fact, quite misunderstood and frankly, sometimes hated. It’s not a surprise, though very interesting, that the response to my question, “What is your opinion about Israel?” received a primal instinctive quick response. Without much thought each man said something to the affect of, or as one man so aptly replied, “What they are doing to the Palestinians makes me sick to my stomach. If I was there I would kill them.”

Let’s think about this a moment and go back to our survival spectrums. Like the Jews rudely rushing and pushing off the bus, doing whatever it takes to get ahead, these Arab Muslim men have their own idea of what is right and wrong, to do and say. Their attitude is more extreme, shaped over time because of much different factors and variables.

I don’t know anyone who doesn’t wince and have aching empathy when they see oppressed people; the unfortunate results of war. But even so the reaction by Muslims to what is happening in Israel is beyond visceral, it hits them like only horrifying fear can. It’s pure survival instinct. Their DNA Memory is revealed.

The theater of fear, the words and actions of all too many Muslims conjures up that of a character, a book by Jack London named White Fang, a story of a “blessed wolf” whose evolution was absurdly harsh but ends indeed, blessed. It’s a fantastic fictional story that paints the picture of DNA Memory quite well. (I highly recommend the read as a supplement to this zeitgeist and my own coming book.)

Let’s look at the details affecting the Palestinians, many Arabs and Muslims.

A rebellion to colonialism may have more to do with our current state of affairs, than that of Islam. Let’s remember the British occupied the land of Palestine after the fall of the Ottoman Empire and before handing the rights over to Israel.

‘A number of scholars have pointed out that the revolutionary discourse of many modern Muslim leaders has most in common with the ideologies of resistance employed by Third World national liberation and self-determination movements. Khaled Abou El Fadl writes that, “modern nationalistic thought exercised a greater influence on the resistance ideologies of Muslim and Arab national liberation movements than anything in the Islamic tradition. The Islamic tradition was reconstructed to fit Third World nationalistic ideologies of anti-colonialism and anti-imperialism rather than the other way around.”

Before colonialism, authority was acquired by religious leaders in a much more subtle process, and religious leaders who advocated extreme hostility or aggression against the state were usually marginalized. After all, most Muslims did not want to be led into revolution, they simply wanted their lives to be better.’

‘In general, the most successful religious leaders were those who, in addition to serving the spiritual needs of the community, were able to moderate how state power was exercised on ordinary people, and in some sense, acted as intermediaries between the people and state. However, at those times when forces hostile to the practice of Islam attacked or occupied Muslim lands, for example, during the Mongol invasions, (Christian) Crusades, European colonialism, and the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan, meaningful mediation was often impossible.’

‘Many historically Muslim lands have undergone unending turmoil since the beginning of European colonialism.’

That said I’m sure there are some fundamental origins and/or cultural aspects of Islam that may have held them back from being a major player in modern world development, but I think those variables play a much lesser role in the overall current state of affairs. We don’t know what would have happened to the Muslim people if they were the ones forced out of their lands and made to survive in a Western society, benefiting and participating hands-on in worldwide enlightenments, being handed sacred territory and funded by super powers to build their own nation.

Which leads us to another important factor: Foreign aid.

A conservative estimate of total direct U.S. aid to Israel is almost $114 Billion. It’s not easy to find foreign aid numbers, or what we offered to Arab Muslim countries (but it is a fact that not a single Arab Muslim country received the substantial aid that Israel received, rather it was more a collective strategy) over the same time period.

To put this in better perspective, let’s look at one year of U.S. foreign aid: 2001.

The top three recipients in 2001 was Israel with 2.82 billion, followed by 2 out of 3 Israeli neighbors; 1.987 billion for Egypt and 0.227 billion for Jordan. To this day a third of all foreign aid goes to Israel Egypt, mostly for armament.

Now let’s consider the relationships with have with these countries. Of course we have close ties with Israel. It’s now one of the most powerful caucus and/or lobbies in the United States. And we’re on decent though sometimes tense terms with Egypt and Jordan, which has something to do with of our relationship/strategy with Israel. We keep dissident Egyptian and Jordanian voices at bay, for the most part, with funding, foreign aid and security.

And of course Egypt is one of our most powerful strategic allies against Iran (a fundamentalist Muslim country which funds terrorist engagement against Israel; and has issues with U.S. allied including Egypt and our other very close allies (militarily, commercially, strategically), the Arab Emirates). Egypt relies on the United States more than ever, for it’s own security. Jordan is benefits as well (interesting factoid: the Academy Award for best picture, ‘Hurt Locker’ was filmed in Jordan).

There are more than a few Arab Muslim countries on our top 10 foreign aid lists but not one equals in funding to the Jewish state of Israel. Also important to note, the Palestinians were not on that top list in 2001.

To play devils advocate or pose the thought, I will ask and answer the following question, ‘Why would the United States fund nations and organizations that are at war with us or our allies — or are dictatorships oppressing their people?’ The answer might be, ‘I don’t necessarily think we should. It’s complicated, no doubt. But nonetheless inaction leads to a death of most relationships, or turns it into an ugly one. We must do something.’

Our lack of care for the general people who don’t fit into our national strategic policy may explain a few things — September 11th 2001 being one of them — not without further logic to round back to the fact terrorism (whoever does it) is plainly evil. And of course the Taliban had it’s own issues, but terrorism was born from the same enemy — oppression, or in this case, likely an attempt at commercial colonization during the Cold War. The mad animal we created, literally trained to kill (however, at the time we helped them fight the Soviets), came after us when it was figured out we didn’t really care about them — we had our own selfish motives.

Western countries have dominated, colonized much of the world, raped and pillaged the land, and only recently (within the last 60-100 years or so, mostly post World War II) removing themselves with a rushed scalpel.

In too many cases this rush to hand over power turned into civil war, not to mention other hurts, such as lingering commercial contracts whereby Western countries still dominate the national resources of post colonized lands with little money put back into the local communities. Instead any shared profits are held hostage within corrupt governments and dictator pockets.

With that understood, the anomaly is blaring.

We didn’t give Palestine back to the local Arabs did we?

No, the British and the equivalent to the UN gave it to the Jews whose rights to the land are religious and/or ancient. The Jews certainly did not, at the time, have the majority demographic in Palestine (some estimated are less than 7-10%).

Yes, the intention was for Palestinians and the new Jewish state to share land and resources, but when that didn’t work, the League of Nations cut loose and ran, sending money to Israel when needed (essentially buying a strategic Middle Eastern ally).

Which makes me think of a saying, “You reap what you sow.” And with that I suggest we’ve seen the harvest of years past. We helped shape the DNA Memory of the groups of people who distrust us.

But the good news is, we can use this theory of DNA Memory to help us communicate our past wrongs, to evolve and made the necessary fixes. My hope is we can be humble enough to say we’re not superior. That we can find smart solutions to prove we want to use our advancement to help others advance as well.

First things first, we need to understand the past to come to terms with and accept the present. Only then can make smart informed decisions that can positively and sustainably impact our future. But it’s clear to me that the Arab Muslims, the Palestinians — the previously colonized world, everyday people need and want aid to take control of their own resources. They want to be in control, not be controlled; to become mutually beneficial partners with the American people.

Though how the foreign aid is managed is a whole other issue, for another time. I’ll cover this in my study of Africa. The question is, are we investing in programs that help 3rd world and developing communities educate their children, adults seeking help — or are we exclusively supporting strategic military, commercial objectives?

What are we harvesting today?

Chapter 6

Let’s wrap up the journey into common ground and get to the conclusion. There is a service worker in Egypt that I keep thinking about. I will share our discussion with you.

I had the habit of taking dinner at the same spot each night. I started to notice that one of the servers was curious about me, so I made eye contact and asked him how he was. He looked happy for the opportunity to talk, ‘I am fine, thank you. Hey, you read a lot, huh? You always have that book in your hand.”

This is how we became friends, with a simple smile and hello, similar to what happened between the Catholic woman and my guide in Jerusalem; two well intentioned people striking up a conversation, having very little in common, but not letting it stop us.

He asked what I was doing in Sinai, the Red Sea. I shared that I was working on a book, researching and study a theory on DNA Memory, but also came to take scuba lessons. He was used to people being there for scuba, clearly, because he smiled and said it’s the best place, “to see colorful fish” (though he’s never taken a dive himself), then jumped into asking me more questions, surprisingly interested in my project, but more that I was American. He wanted some answers.

His honest, curious and overall good nature won me over. He too became a friend. We met over the course of a few nights, after he got off work, spending a couple hours discussing various topics; so I could answer his questions, but of course, because I wanted to understand him as well.

He wanted to know, “Why American movies always depict Muslims as angry and mean?” I explained to him that the U.S. film industry is by no means a real representation of what the people of the United States think and feel, but also said that no doubt these movies affect how people initially respond and/or deal with Muslims. Or in other words, I don’t think all Americans believe Muslims are bad people, but certainly movies certainly have influenced some people to not think and feel for themselves, that this ignorance is shaped and helped by what people see in the news, the wars happening in the Middle East. It’s not easy to keep up with the facts when all you’re hearing is sound bytes and sadly few people read the details in respectful newspapers, because they are trying, as he is, working very hard each day to survive and don’t pay as much attention to issues unrelated to their daily lives. Therefore the stereotypes linger, for all of us.

So I asked him, “Where do you get your news?” He said he went online and read mostly local newspapers. “Do you ever question if the information you getting is correct?” and with that he paused a moment and said, “I don’t know.” Which I replied, “That could be what’s happening in the United State. People don’t always stop and consider that there are a few ways to look at a story, the so called he said, she said and the truth situation.”

He understood this. And we agreed that media is a part of the perception problem.

He wanted to know what I knew about Islam, so I went on to outline the following, “I understand that first came Judaism, then Christianity and that Islam is the most recent of the monotheistic Abraham religions. I know it’s one of the fastest growing religions in the world. I know that Muslims believe Mohammad was their prophet. He was considered a simple man, a shepherd and a merchant. That Muslims believe the angel Gabriel visited him and told him to read. At this point in time he could not read or write, but because it was demanded of him, he did. Much of what is in the Qur’an mirrors the Bible and Torah, or so many historians agree. And like the other monotheistic religions, Islam is based mostly on strong moral, ethical rules and encourages peace and just dealings; but like the other religions, has some dark stories, which could be interpreted in various ways. Islam has no religious establishment — no popes or bishops telling people what to do. Islam also teaches that the earlier scriptures were sometimes lost or altered, and that a final prophet, Muhammad, completed God’s message to humankind and hence the religion of Islam was born. But Islam is an oral tradition and it’s not accepted, as it is with the Bible or the Torah, that it is translated into any language other than the ancient Aramaic. And beyond that the dialect of this ancient language is specific to the land where Mohammed was born, Mecca, therefore any translation can be difficult and may vary wildly. I know that Mecca is also where Mohammed started his infamous journey, ending where the Temple of the Dome currently stands and where Muslims believe he rode his horse into heaven. I understand that traditional Muslims don’t eat pork, similar to the Jews and avoid alcohol as well. I know there are a very large segment of African Americans who are Muslims, which interests me a great deal but that is another analysis for another conversation. I see and hear, via the Minarets, that prayer is scheduled five times a day at 5am, 12pm, 3pm, 5pm and again at 7pm, depending on the position of the sun.”

I could have kept going, but he stopped me and rejoined, “I’m impressed!” and then asked, “What do you think about my religion?”

This was a more difficult question. I told him I was agnostic, adding I had a new definition for that (open, curious, harmonious, but not absolute). And if someone were to look at the spectrum with fundamentalist, zealous religious people on one side and atheists, non-believers on the other side, that I sit somewhere in the middle – of other spectrum — in a different universe. Then I winked. He understood.

I told him seriously that I respected his beliefs, as I respected the beliefs of any persons, whatever they were as long as it didn’t violate basic human and people’s rights. And I recognize some interesting developments such as Muslims in Indonesia who were until recently the World Bank’s model of a Third World country, but has since liberalized its economy and grown at 7% a year for almost three decades. They have embraced democracy — still a fragile experiment — and had elected a woman as its president, though she’s already been voted out, the fact there is regular voting is good.

The problem is that groups advocating violence is spreading and wrecking havoc on what use to be a relatively peaceful Muslim country. These are the issues of concern for me and many other people.

Also, that I am interested how Islam spread around the world, and Indonesian history is of considerable interest because it’s full of contradiction, such as the mix of Islam with Buddhism, and Muslim cross-dressers competing to be crowned Miss Indonesian Transvestite of the year, and also pray in the women’s section of the mosque while wearing the traditional headscarf.

The latter part of that passage made him laugh uncomfortably, a bit surprised. He made it clear he lives in a much different culture, stricter, more traditional.

I pressed, “I do have issues with any absolutist theory, on both sides of the scale. I take issue when someone says they know absolutely, ‘this is truth.’ because, in my opinion, that is a big reason why progress is stunted.”

So I asked him, “Is it true that from a young age Muslims are taught not to ask questions?” He said, “That is true, it’s easier that way.” He and other Muslims explained to me that some religious teaching could be difficult until you learn to have faith. I told him I had an issue with that because, “It teaches behavior that doesn’t inspire the critical thinking needed to move beyond the static, and to evolve.”

He seemed to leave it be, even though he had a perfect chance to tell me other religions do the same thing.

Instead he followed-up with the question, “Do you believe in god?”

I gave him my standard answer, “I don’t know if there is a god. As that ant doesn’t know who I am, doesn’t realize to what extent I exist — that I can’t communicated with it and it can’t communicate with me, though here I am and there it is; I am not so arrogant to believe that there isn’t a power or energy or whatever, something greater than me.”

He laughed and said, “Your mind is big!” to which my reply was, “Shukran! I think…” I said thank you but caught his sense of humor. We laughed.

He didn’t agree with my logic, he did not question my logic. I’m inclined to say he appreciated my agnostic philosophy, because its universal in lacking judgement, but maybe that is wishful thinking.

Something made me feel comfortable with this young man so I decided to change the subject and ask him point blank what he thought about the Jewish race being so incredibly advanced across a variety of disciplines.

His response, “Well, Egyptians are very smart too. We have 4 Noble Prizes,” he said proudly, to which my response was, “Sure, and that is great, but look at the population of Egypt (44 million) compared to the entire Jewish race (13 million)”

I outlined what I thought was the basic and general evolutionary history of the Jewish people (which you already read) and where they are today because of their oppression.

To this he literally took a step back beyond surprised. He had never thought about these things and I could tell he questioned my intentions a bit.

The look on his face could not hide the process going on inside his head, so I added leaning forward, “Now look, I’m not saying this because I think they are a superior. I simply believe they have evolved, and quite interestingly they evolved into this advanced people because of how they were oppressed.”

I explained the big picture or painted the picture, like this.

There are three cousins, Jews, Muslims and Christians.

One cousin, the Jews, can’t own land and is kicked out of his homeland, forced out and into the big bad world, surviving, for the most part, by using his brain, becoming an exceptional problem solver of modern issues, because this is how he made a living and this is what his culture encouraged him to do. This cousin loved his family and his culture and maintained it well, trusting those like him more than anyone else, because, overtime, his oppression gave him trust issues. He harbored a lot of fear because people outside his community didn’t like them and went out of their way to hurt them.

The other cousin, the Muslims, had a much different struggle for survival. He did own land or in fact had a nomadic an/or sedentary life where he and his family and community lived across great landmasses. This cousin had unfortunate and terrible fights with his neighbors for the natural resources of limited land. Plus there were other struggles related to power. The fights continued but for the most part these people lived off the land well enough, building bigger and bigger families, spreading quickly and kept a rather uncomplicated and static life.

Daily struggle for life stayed the same for these two cousins up to the recent modern day. The heyday for both was mostly in the past, until a major change happened.

The Jews, as a group of people, were attack by a horrible agent. Reluctantly a third cousin, mostly Christians, came in to save and protect the Jews. Once the fight was won, the Jews needed a place and time to heal. So the third cousin gave the first cousin land it had been occupying.

The Muslims were living in the area the third cousin was occupying, when all of sudden the third cousin decided to give the land it had occupied, not to the Muslims, but to the Jews.

For reasons the second cousin, the Muslims don’t fully understand, the outside world, mostly the third cousins, seems to favor the first cousin, the Jews taking the land for their own.

Starting a fight, this time between the first and second cousin; the third cousin decided to step out of the arena, though choose to fund one side more than the other.

The anger grows until finally the cousin who never left, the Muslims are screaming to the rest of the world that this is not fair, this land is called Palestine and I am a Palestinian, this is not Israel, this land is not owned by the Jews, you cannot give it to them.

But the Jewish cousin moved in anyway and began to build, and build and build until finally they had one of the most powerful nations in the world. As this happened the Muslim Palestinian cousins quality-of-life deteriorated, and war continued, but now behind occupied territory.

The Jewish cousin believes the land once called Palestine and is now called Israel, is rightfully theirs — so this first cousin starts to use all it’s advanced knowledge of the modern world and uses it against the second cousin. Cutting-edge warfare is waged.

The Muslim Palestinian cousin did not have the advanced tools and weapons like the Jewish people, and feeling angry and desperate did what they could to fight for what they believed. Palestine, in their eyes, is their land, a naturally born right.

From here we see the beginnings of modern terrorism, the cornered tactics of the second cousin, the Muslims – followed by an escaling attack by the Jews; extreme measures are taken to secure the Jewish state.

The war not only continues to this day, it is evolving into something earth shattering.

The result? Palestinians are living in 3rd world conditions. Israel is becoming more and more powerful, but instead of leading peace, it’s approaching a nuclear war — a stand-off with other bigger stronger cousins, Arab Muslim nations, the likes of Iran and Syrian, who are coming to the defense of the Palestinians; and of course when push comes to shove, Western allied nations will come to the defense of Israel. With this, we have the makings, a similar combination of variables and factors that brought about historic World Wars.

I stopped the story here. We sat quiet for a moment.

He broke our silence and said he thought the story “described fairly” what had and is happening.

With a pause I asked him, “So, what’s next?”

He doesn’t know, like none of us know. He said he wants peace. And he did say that Jews and Muslim used to be able to get along and he hopes that can happen again. He told stories of how his Father used to work with Jews, etc.

We sat quiet again.

I was thinking: Where do we find compromise? Who is willing to let go and or give, and of what? How to avoid a 3rd world war?

My new friend was quiet, contemplating the story as well. I could sense he didn’t know what to say.

I decided to change the subject and asked him some personal questions. I knew he was expecting his first child, and sadly his wife was in Cairo, more than 5 hours away. He takes care of his family, like many men do in Egypt, from a distance. He was looking forward to leaving work to make his monthly visit, but his manager was making him stay, even though she was due soon.

I took the opportunity to focus on his child. I said, “Don’t you want a better quality of life for your child?” and to this he was a bit offended, “My family has a good quality of life!”

I back peddled a bit saying, “ Yes, I know, you work hard and support your family. You work 6-7 days a week, all day long, with little break, yes? And he nods his head. “You see your family maybe a few days a month, yes?” He says “That right.” And to be fair, you could say these living conditions are not easy, yes? “We have a simple, happy life,” he replied. Encouraged, I continued, “But doesn’t every parent want a better life for their child?”

He was quiet, again waiting for me to continue, so I expanded the point. “You have a good enough job, so imagine how much harder it is for other families who were not as lucky as yours, or even all the families that are like yours. Are you happy with your educational and health systems, with the pollution that is all around? Do you believe you have the a fair opportunity to better or increase your quality of life?” He finally said, “I understand your point.”

“Look,” I said “The Middle Eastern Muslims and the Jews, Western society too — all can continue or escalate this war, or we can simply understand and accept, with humbling knowledge how we got to this point so – and then move on from the past. There is no going back, we can only move forward. Israel is a powerful economic force, a good though not perfect example of a solid democracy in the Middle East. Why not partner with them? Fight them in the world of public discourse. Demand of them, peacefully, to learn from their own history and to help the Palestinians achieve a healthier, fairer, better quality of life.”

He humored me by continuing to listen, with a friendly smirk on his face so I went on to give examples of how people in 3rd world countries are as capable of producing intellectual results on the scale of the Jewish people in a very short period of time, and in fact this is proven in evolutionary biology (demonstrated exceptional well in Richard Dawkins book, The Ancestor’s Tale).

But I sited President Obama as the best example. I tell him that it was only a couple generations ago that Obama’s grandfather lived in a rural environment, living as a local leader, yes, but a uncomplicated one, a shepherd. Not that there is anything wrong with that, the point is, it’s possible to make the leap, in a few generations, to be the President of the United States of America.

He liked this idea, but said, “I am a simple man, a holy man. I can’t change my country. I must take care of my family. It’s expensive to have a family. I must work.” And with this my reply was, “Well somebody needs to make a stand. If the United States never had Martin Luther King, we wouldn’t have a President Obama. There must be a Muslim somewhere in the Arab world who is thinking about these things, taking a lead for peace, willing to accept a two-state solution with Israel, focusing demands on equal opportunity, access and use of natural resources?”

We discussed this a bit more to no avail. This person does not exist yet, apparently. So I told him about my Muslim friends in the United States, that I’m impressed in what they are able to balance. They are excelling, living in the upper percept of society while also being 100% dedicated to their religion and culture, Arabic language as well as English. And they certainly accept and understand many different groups of people. The proof is in their friendship with me.

We went back and forth on more cultural issues; what he says are the “Misunderstandings,” in regards to woman and more. I promised I’d read more about it, and have. Just as it’s true we have various breeds, so to say, of each religion. It’s true that those breeds have different ways of treating woman. He is on the moderate side of the spectrum. And although I agree now more than ever that most Muslim women are not treated poorly, I pushed a little bit more, “I believe, and Obama mentioned in his discussion in Cairo, that woman are critical to the overall development of Muslim communities, which means they too require the best of educational opportunities.” He didn’t think his wife needed to go to college so we rested the topic.

He wrapped up our question and answer series with the most challenging question.

“Do you believe in destiny?”

I went into a moment of thought remembering my last day in Jerusalem and taking into consideration his question with an unfortunate reality. It’s the fundamentalists that make a two-state and peaceful agreement between Israel and Palestinians difficult, not the everyday people I’ve spent time with.

Chapter 7

I had a chance meeting with another writer, while standing in line, again, to get up to the Temple Mount. I planned to meet my guide friend there for our last day together, though got delayed in a very slow moving line.

“Do you know when they close the Temple Mount?” I was a bit startled when this question was directed to me because I was lost in thought after standing quietly in line for so long, I respond slowly, “No, sorry I don’t, but I know we have only a brief time to walk the grounds before prayer begins again.” He looks at me for a second, then questions, “Where you from?” Again the question and answer series begins, the discussion continues.

He’s from Los Angeles too. Also writing a book, though his is about the Bible. He believes he can prove, more than ever, that the Bible is 100% accurate, that each word is the perfect word of God. And he’s been studying the Hebrew text, which he says is the only believable version (though he uses a translation tool), which he’s discovered outlines an exact map to various biblical events. That is why he’s in Jerusalem. I’m guessing this newly understood map is what his book is all about, but he doesn’t want to say.

Our conversation continues through the security line, which is nice, because it help speed up time.

As we broke free from the prolonged process he started to walk fast, expecting me to listen and follow, so I did, and we end up, funny enough, right where my Muslim friend, my guide took me the first time, where we made our prayer for peace.

He said, in quite clear enough terms that their will be a 3rd world war, that the Jewish people will build a 3rd Temple, as the Bible says, on the same spot the current Temple of the Dome stands. He made sure I understood, that “The Bible must be 100% accurate, because if not, it is 100% wrong.”

This man reminded me (to be fair he said he was not religious, neither Jewish nor Muslim nor Christian, however, he did put all his faith in the Bible; he also plans to teach his new findings in Christian schools) the dangerous nature of zealous belief, of fundamentalism — no matter what religion is comes from.

If we’ve learned anything we’ve learned that thoughts can manifest into action.

It was the first time on this journey where I felt like hope was fading because an absolute point of view is hard to penetrate with fresh logic.

This righteous man realized at some point in our conversation that I wasn’t talking or responding beyond nods and facial expressions. Signalling enough to let him know I was interested for him to keep talking. I want to hear his story.

He was so different from the Catholic nun, my Muslim guide and Egyptian friend; the other people I had the pleasure to spend time with in the Old City and beyond, who dismissed these choice of absolutist words, instead preferring or focusing on the desire for peace.

Anyways, this man began to catch on and suddenly stopped, looked at me with a funny gaze and said, “I don’t know why I’m talking to you. I’ve been coming to Jerusalem a few times a year and never tell people these things.” I said in response, “I don’t know why either, but I was listening.”

And I did.

He had strong negative thoughts about the Muslims, believing their religion was made-up and straight-up, wrong. That Jews and Christian have it right, for the most part. He questioned everybody that didn’t believe 100% in the Bible.

I didn’t know what to say in response. I believe this man is dangerous for his total lack of tolerance or willingness to let go in order for all of us to live and let live.

I told my new friend this story, the service worker in Egypt. I explained to him that this Christian-non-Christian man or whatever he was, this man I met who spoke about 3rd World War has an “absolute faith.”

So I answered my new friend, his question if I believe in destiny with the following answer.

“I rather believe that each of us controls our destiny. And my hope is most of us want and can achieve peace, a more sustainable healthy environment for us all.”

CONCLUSION

I understand why Christopher Hitchens takes the position religion is abhorrent. When you look at the details laid out in his smart-alec book, God is not Great (the same book I was reading and finished in Egypt when the server caught my eye), you get a sense of where his bad attitude comes from; a humanist who’s been very hurt and is confused, ever questioning why people need religion.

Honestly, I can relate to that.

It’s not easy to be optimistic, from a historic, human and people’s rights point-of-view, to be tolerant of fundamentalist. It’s not easy when you see the damage being done, how the saga continues, history repeating itself and the DNA Memory being compounded by the oppressed and oppressing isn’t helping, but rather hurting all of us.

But when you start to understand and accept DNA Memory you may realize there is a reason why people are the way they are, good-bad-or-indifferent. You can start to see the depth required of reason, as well; that it is not so plain to see the how and why. Thankfully the logic beyond DNA Memory has broad power.

Therefore pointing figures and telling people they are wrong or bad is not only insulting, it’s futile; more, historically doesn’t work to inspire personal change or an evolution of thought of a group of people.

So where I disagree with atheists, folks like Mr. Hitchens (though I have much respect for the likes of Richard Dawkins and recommend many of his books) — and on the other end of the absolutist debate — the Christian-non-Christian writer that I met in Jerusalem and other zealous fundamentalist — is what I’m realizing my project, Zoe Bios, is partially though profoundly about.

Zoe Bios offers a fresh definition on what it means to be agnostic, going beyond belief, becoming a viable philosophy on human and social relations. This theory of DNA Memory is an evolution of past thinking, and maybe a tool for a new enlightenment. And I’m taking this bold position because I think it could have a revolutionary affect.

It’s time the secular world stepped in again. We have an obligation.

Also, and in terms of this case study of Jewish and Muslim DNA Memory; we like to say, “Home is where the heart is.’

Well in this version of this heart felt story I see the Middle East beating strong. Its pulse is throbbing, felt around the world. But it’s been working too hard for too long, it’s struggling to survive. It’s critical state is such if doesn’t heal the consequences will be dire, for the whole, all of us. To get real, we can’t afford (if only monetarily, though there is much more to consider) to let this situation worsen. This may come-off dramatic, but I honestly believe we’re at a critical point, a junction in history.

I’ve learned along this DNA trek that many if not all things are somewhat connected. Israel is a cross section of ancient, post modern and cutting-edge. For me, it feels like home – like many of the places that I visited on my DNA trek, this journey into common ground. It’s about the people, all of them, as much as the land and it’s reflections. But it’s not only me that is connected. The majority of the modern world is.

I didn’t know where this DNA trek would take me, but it’s becoming clearer now.

Can we change the nature of the battle: to use DNA Memory to fight for a universal understanding of different religions, as we support different cultures and lifestyles. Can we educate our kids, adults who seek help – accept them as they come. Can we empower those who are willing to help the cause; shifting the battle to understanding and acceptance, to fight corruption, to encourage participation. Can we embrace, into prosperity, those who are like us, pursuing happiness.

Notice these are not questions, rather statements, or a call to action; because inaction is not an option. We need enlightened new choices.

It’s in our own best interests to put people in 3rd world environments and development countries on a level playing field, teach them critical thinking. Let them control their own destinies. It’s the best investment towards peace, and a broader competitive economy.

This is the long view, which only works if we start, preferably as soon as possible. Our foreign aid must match our desired outcome.

The short-term fight is for a transparent democracy and a free open media, again to educate the masses, give them the tools to take the battle to their local arena.

This is why I support Israel (not because of the less than 5% Jewish blood I may have) — but I do put immense pressure on my dear Jewish friends, to go beyond a nation, to help others in need, to be a role model and a hub for development across the Middle East; to heal themselves of the disease of war, because they are more than capable and therefore have a responsibility. No more occupation and oppression.

And these same principals guide me and are the reason why I support and am a friend of the Muslims. I hope they find a revolutionary leader, the likes of Martin Luther King, to lead them into a peaceful mutually beneficial two-state solution, a fresh relationship with Israel and the rest of the world. To evolve into the modern way of life, in a way that makes sense for them, and take their rightful blessed place at the round table.

Yes, it is my opinion and I believe the evolution of these groups of people, especially in Israel and surrounding Arab Muslim developing communities might make the biggest difference in the overall quality of life around the world, a positive tipping point (because we can put our foreign aid to better use).

Easier said than done. OK, but universal understanding and acceptance is the first step. DNA Memory can help us get to that starting point. Then one step leads to another – that is, dare I say, how this works.

Cheers to that. Or as I like to say with friends in celebration of a cherished moment, our split seconds in history, ‘– to the good life, however you define it.”

NEXT: ARUSHA, TANZANIA, SUB-SAHARAN AFRICA. THE DISCUSSION WITH UN LAWYERS WORKING FOR THE RWANDAN TRIBUAL AND THE NEW AFRICA COURT TRYING TO GIVE RIGHTS NOT ONLY TO HUMANS BUT ALSO TO PEOPLE; GROUPS OF PEOPLES WHO HAVE NO CONCEPT OF WESTERN SOCEITY. PLUS ANCIENT ROCK ART OF BUSHMAN SHAMANS SHARE SOME SECRETS, MORE CONVERSATIONS WHILE ON THE TRAIL, CONTRADICTIONS AND CORRUPTION OF NGOS AND MORE.

XXX

[1] http://fcit.usf.edu/holocaust/People/displace.htm

[2] http://www.jewishmag.com/115mag/smartjews/smartjews.htm

[3] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C._D._Darlington

[4] http://www.aish.com/jl/h/48955286.html

[5] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Bell_Curve

[6] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secular_Jewish_culture

[7] http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/12/opinion/12brooks.html

[8] http://www.taubcenter.org.il/news2_item.asp?ID=84

[9] http://www.gotquestions.org/Jews-Arabs.html

[10] http://www.pbs.org/weta/crossroads/about/show_indonesia.html

[11] http://www.brookings.edu/opinions/2009/0605_obama_cairo_speech_winthrop.aspx

[12] http://menic.utexas.edu/cairo/modern/challenges/challenges.html

[13] http://www.hejleh.com/countries/egypt.html

[14] http://www.mideastweb.org/briefhistory.htm

[15] http://www.embassyofindonesia.org/press/docpdf/speech/IndonesiaWorldLargestMajorityMuslimCountry.pdf

[16] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BlqLwCKkeY

[17] http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/8083171.stm

[18] http://wrmea.org/component/content/article/245-2008-november/3845-congress-watch-a-conservative-estimate-of-total-direct-us-aid-to-israel-almost-114-billion.html

[19] http://www.israelnationalnews.com/News/News.aspx/132131

[20] http://speakingoffaith.publicradio.org/programs/newvoice/mattson_stopping-oppression.shtml

[21] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Mandate_of_Palestine

[22] http://www.mideastweb.org/briefhistory.htm

[23] http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/19/world/middleeast/19egypt.html

[24] http://www.answers.com/topic/hosni-mubarak

[25] http://online.wsj.com/article/SB124087394756961155.html

[26] http://www.cfr.org/publication/9362/

[27] http://upenn.edu/pennpress/book/13962.html

[28] http://www.answers.com/topic/osama-bin-laden